Whew, our long awaited first long trip to Europe to visit Emily.

Berlin day 1:

We took of at 5:10pm CST, landed at 6:30am local time. We stood waiting for our gate to pop up on the screen for about 20 mins and Allison’s genius idea to ask the security guard about it led us to another area of terminal 5 (an area of which we had zero idea about) that we had to take a train to.  We had a scare in security line when both of our bags had to get “checked” but we made it just in time for our 8:30am flight to Berlin. Tried to nap on the short 1.5 hour flight to Berlin, but not much of that was done. We landed in Berlin right on time, 11:30am local time – to a dreary, raining low 40s day. As if getting 1-2 hours of sleep wasn’t draining enough, the dreary, cloudy weather sure didn’t help. 

We collected our bags shortly after deplaning and off we were in an Uber to our Airbnb. When we got dropped off we couldn’t get into the apartment complex, prior communication to our host wasn’t the greatest. So we had to walk down the block to a hotel to gain WiFi access and message the host who was able to get us in within about 30 minutes. We cleaned up, which felt absolutely amazing, napped for an hour and grabbed a bite to eat before heading to the Reichstag Dome. We took the bus 100 for 1.70€ each to tour the dome. Well, Leo had thought he booked the tickets for a 16:00 tour; however, the email he had wasn’t the confirmation but it was the reservation notice with a link to confirm the tickets. So we were unable to tour the Reichstag dome – which led us to the memorial of the murdered Jews of Europe which seemed fitting for the weather that day. Then we walked around, about 2 miles of exploring this huge somewhat modern Central European city. We had dinner reservations booked at a quaint German restaurant called Schnitzilei in Mitte. Amazing Wiener schnitzel with a Weisse beer and a glass of white wine. Perfect comfort food on our first night of exploring. After dinner we made our way to none other than the Hofrauhaus of Berlin where we both enjoyed 2 liters of classic German beer before walking back to the bnb for some zzz’s. 

Day 2 in Berlin:

After a night of solid sleep, thanks to a couple Hofbrauhaus liters, we were up and out of the door by 9:15 and had breakfast at a small all German menu cafe called Cafe Belle Chico. We had our TV tower reservation for 10am, we got right in and were able to see Berlin from 207m in the sky. We captured some sweet aerial photos and took in a bit of history lesson while doing so. 

After the TV tower we were off to see the Berlin Wall Memorial by way of public transit. We bought an all transit one day, ABC zone, ticket for 7.80€ and boy did we get our use out of it. We took the U2 U-Bahn from Alexanderplatz and then the M10 tram and arrived at the Berlin Wall Memorial. We took in some eye opening history while seeing some of the remnants left after the fall of the wall in 1989, uniting Germany in 1990. We spent just shy of 2 hours exploring this memorial and then found ourself at a cafe to regroup and grab some WiFi (which they didn’t have :D) to figure out how to get to Markthalle Neun for lunch. 

Hopped back on the M10 tram to stop name and took the U2 U-Bahn towards the Kreuzberg neighborhood. Jumped off after 6 stops and took bus 165 265 5 stops east and got off for a lunch break at Markthalle Neun. This was a vibrant, indoor food truck market. After going back and forth on what we wanted, we both decided on Pad Thai, partially because we had no idea what anything else was and Pad Thai is quite universal. It was unbelievable Pad Thai and was basically our only source of green vegetables for our 2 days in Berlin. Enjoyed a nice Hefeweizen with our lunch, quite the food/beverage combo.

Once again, we found ourselves in a cafe thirsty for WiFi and a Pilsner for Leo and a green “tee” for Allison. Regrouped for a short while, with some WiFi and planned out our afternoon – Topography of Terror, Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag dome. 

After a quick hour back at the Airbnb, we prepared our next few West Berlin journeys by taking screenshots of the maps, train/bus stops so we could be sure to make our 19:30 dinner on the Far East side of Berlin. We jumped on the S2 train over towards the Topography of Terror – this was one of the most memorable but also very dark. It was a compilation of photos from about 1933 to 1950 that depicted the rise then fall of Nazi Germany. It was an unfathomable time period. This was the main HQ of the Gestapo and Secret State (SS). By the end of this it was dark outside and we were heading to the Brandenburger Tor. This is the most photographed piece of Berlin because it stood through WW2 and because it was the primary spot for separation of East and West Berlin. We took our photos there and were off to the next stop – the revenge of the Reichstag dome which we had confirmed our tickets for 16:30. Waited in 30 minutes of lines and security to experience the dome visit. Overall, it was cool but not worth the wait and process. 

Next destination: Spiesehaus in the Friedrechstan neighborhood of Far East Berlin. Our trusty public transit pass could get us there, once again. We hopped on the S7 train and once we got off, with no WiFi and swollen feet, we had to settle for our first taxi ride to arrive just in time to Spiesehaus. Allison got braised beef and noodles and carrots. Leo got the Haxe which was the pork knuckle with sauerkraut and boiled potatoes – it was delicious and the best meal I had in Germany. After dinner we strolled down the street to a local brewery called Hops & Barley for a Weizen then over to a cocktail bar. We had called it quits after that old fashioned and gin, grapefruit and rosemary cocktail – guess who had which one. 

As were getting low on cash, nowhere took credit card, we couldn’t take a taxi and we couldn’t pick up WiFi walking down the street. The bars also had WiFi but it “wasn’t working.” Using our sense of direction, we got on the M13 team which took us to the train stop we had got off to get to this neighborhood. We got back on the S7 to go West to Alexanderplatz and one stop later it was the trains final destination. We had to think on our sore feet and get the next train, at this point it didn’t matter which one, to go west to Alexanderplatz. 

Day 3: travel to Prague

An alarm woke us from a deep sleep at 9:15 and we snoozed for another 45 minutes, not sure why we were so tired either from the busy day prior or still catching up from the travel. Either way we were set to depart Berlin Central Station (massive and confusing) at 12:59. Once we got on the train, we figured out from a bunch of non English speaking German fellows, who were a few beers deep, that we were in the right seats but in the wrong “wagon.” We walked up to the next wagon and found our seats in this one were open, but in the room of 6 seats, 4 of them were taken and our luggage couldn’t fit in the overhead storage that room. So Leo found a room with 1 guy in it (Dalai Lama follower) and we took our place hoping no one else would come in…. we lucked out until the second to last stop where we were joined by 3 Czechs heading to Prague. 

After a total of 7 stops we had arrived at Prague HL.N at 17:26. It was really amazing how on time arrivals and departures were at each stop, not a minute early or late on departure. 

Emily met us at the station and we took a tram over to where our Airbnb was located. We grabbed a nice classic Czech dinner at A Vejudu and then went on to watch Manchester United vs PSG at Rocky O’Reillys which is an Irish pub.

Day 4: first full day in Prague

Our first full day in a new city, one with rich history and cobblestone streets. We got ready for the day and had breakfast at a cafe by our place on the corner – name. There was a tram station right outside this Cafe so we timed the next tram to get dropped off at Praszky Hrad – Prague Castle. We ended up doing our own self guided tour of the castle and St Vitus cathedral. I would recommend this because 1) there are basically no descriptions of what you’re looking at and 2) you can go at your own pace and go into whatever exhibits you would like. 

We met up with Em after her morning sessions at La Bottega di Finestra – an Italian spot where we thought we’d be able to get sandwiches but we were mistaken so we ordered a meat/cheese plate with a few soups. Then went to Old Town Square, walked through a few street markets… bought a water paint picture of Prague for 200 Czech Corunas which is equivalent to $10. We walked through Wenscelas Square, grabbed a beer at a Czech restaurant then Em headed off to her night teaching session.

We went back to the Airbnb for a quick nap while Em had her 1 hour session. Woke up feeling refreshed and ready for dinner. We ate dinner at Las Adelitas by Old Town Square, went out to Vzorkovna (also called Dogg bar), super grungy, then went to Cash Only Bar which is the same owners as Hemingway Bar – a highly rated cocktail bar. We played a couple different card drinking games while at Dogg bar. It’s named this because there is always the owners dog roaming around this college basement like bar. Em’s 2 roommates Kristen and Katie joined us this evening.

Day 5:

Today was the first day of full sun and a high of 56 degrees making it feel like a beautiful spring day. We met Em at the Farm which was near Letna (a huge park opposite side of the river of where we stayed), we actually ran into Em on tram 8 on the way to breakfast. We then walked through Letna Park on a beautiful sunny day and took in the sights of the city. Letna park is where the Metronom is located and also where the Stalin statue used to be. After this we took a tram over to Namasti Republicky where they had a food market set up. I went to Casa Nova to get a haircut, cool and different experience! Went to the Museum of Communism after Leo got his haircut, this consisted of tons of reading but also a learning lesson – Czechoslovakia was under communist rule from 1946 to 1989. Em had the whole day of off teaching. 

Late lunch at the Namasti Republicky – spicy sausage with sauerkraut, chicken/veggie kabob and some potatoes and veggies in a bowl. Pretty delicious lunch followed by a Czech special chocolate trdelnik that all we shared. We walked by to Old Town Square and tried to get up to Hotel U Prince rooftop but they were booked so we grabbed a beer at their restaurant in the square and were quite exhausted. Around 16:30 we went back to our bnb for a quick nap. 

Special Valentines dinner and Mylenić so good. Cocktails at Hemingway Bar by reservation at 21:00. 

Day 6:

Woke up and we met Em on the corner by our Airbnb. We walked across the bridge together to Cafe Sousto where we enjoyed 3 crepes and a couple lattes and smoothie. We then went to the huge crawling babies art sculptures and they looked hilarious due to how big they actually were. Walked a bit more and went to the “tram” that took us up to the observation tower. The observation tower was awesome, highly recommend. You climb a spiral staircase as the way to the top for an amazing overhead view of the city. 

Walked over through a park to monastery, St Norbert brewery was closed due to reconstruction. Had a beer at a terrace where Leo had visited last time he was in Prague in 2015.  After this we made a long downhill trek to the start of the St Charles bridge and went off the bridge quick to go to the Lennon wall. 

We went to the Ice Pub at night which also got us into the “biggest club in Central Europe” – Karlovy Lazne.

Chilly morning but absolutely gorgeous afternoon or about 52 degrees, it felt like late March!

Day 7: 

Slept in, slow morning. Met Em at Mustek stop, took the metro near CafeFin. Walked around the open market and then saw the TV tower. Walked into Em’s favorite donut shop called “The Donut Shop” grabbed a yummy donut and went back to our bnb for a short rest and then back out. Saw the Jewish Quarter with a self guided tour by Em and her new free iPhone app – wonderful tour guide. Grabbed a trdelnik with ice cream, delicious. 

Went to Supa brewery which was founded in the 15th century, right in Old Town. Grabbed a couple drinks and played 9 holes of golf which Em had taught us. After that we grabbed dinner at Lokal, a popular Prague restaurant. Went to Popo cafe for a couple games of kings in the corner and golf and had called it a night. We reminisced on how the trip has been and drifted to sleep. 

Day 8: bus to Berlin

After an early night before, we woke up around 8:30 and finished packing our suitcases. We grabbed an Uber at 9:30 and were on our way to Em’s apartment in Kremlin, Prague 8. Unfortunately, our Uber had dropped us off 2 blocks away (we must’ve had in the wrong address) so we had to walk a bit with our baggage.

Em gave us the tour of her place which was quite nice! We then left for a bite to eat at mamacoffee which was down the street from her apartment, Kristin (Em’s roommate) joined us as well.

The Florenc bus station was a 10 minute walk from her apartment and our bus left at 12:30. We wrapped up breakfast, stopped in a Potroviny and Albert Supermarket and were stocked up for the 5 hour bus ride. We watched a couple movies and arrived in Berlin at 17:25. Luckily, we had a little Euro leftover so we hailed a taxi and it took us to our hotel. We settled in, researched some food nearby and walked to Louis Alfonso’s which was a great burger place (that took credit card)….

…we had a rough nights sleep and were up at 4:20 for our 7:05 right to London Heathrow – landed in Chicago at 3:30pm local time and were back in the swing of things on Tuesday!