The Galápagos Islands are a part of Ecuador which is split equally by the equator. Ecuador’s literal English translation is equator and this was our first time south of Latitude 0. The Galápagos Islands are an archipelago of 13 islands in the South Pacific Ocean, most islands are uninhabited. The islands welcome ~250,000 tourists each year with the number increasing as each year goes by. To get to the Galápagos you will have to fly into either Quito (Ecuador’s Capitol) or Guayaquil (Ecuador’s largest city). We decided on Guayaquil as the flights (LATAM) from Quito to the Galápagos Islands Baltra/Seymour Airport go through Guayaquil.

Guayaquil is the largest city in Ecuador of some 3 million people. It is near the coast of Ecuador which makes the flight directly to the islands a bit easier than Quito. While there we hiked the 444 stairs in Las Peñas for some city views. Outside of this, we did not venture out too far due to safety concerns in the city.

We’ll share highlights of the islands we visited with majority of our time spent in Santa Cruz in the main town (one of two) of Puerto Ayora. Puerto Ayora has about 20,000 residents so yes, there are plenty of restaurants and things to do. To get here you fly into Baltra/Seymour ➡️ $5pp bus to boat landing ➡️ $1pp short ferry to Santa Cruz. From here, there will be taxis waiting, all taxis are white pick up trucks, to bring you to Puerto Ayora for $25.

Highlights on Santa Cruz:

Tortuga Bay, nearly a mile long beach (playa brava). We ended up doing the hour walk each way from the downtown Puerto Ayora. There’s also a constant, crowded, small ferry that takes you over for $10pp. Las Grietas, you have to take the $1pp water taxi from the main pier in Puerto Ayora, over to Isla Grill, you get off and hike about 10 minutes (past los alemanes beach, worth it to stop) and end up at the start of Las Grietas. It’s a swimming hole between two huge cliffs, las Grietas means crevasses. Super cool, not snorkel worthy but we did have our snorkel gear here. Darwin Research Station, 100% must do with an English speaking guide for $10pp. Recommended earlier in your trip so you have more of an understanding and appreciation for the history of the islands. Plus you get to see all a few other island species of tortoises and some 100+ year old tortoises. Playa Los alemanes and Playa Estacion are also great beaches that are not too crowded and felt more local.

Restaurant recommendations: Almar, Isla Grill, Bahia Mar, Midori, The Rock, there are so many on the Main Street of Charles Darwin Avenue. Although there are several great spots, many felt similar. We also went to Los Kioskos street, where all the restaurants than have been on the island prior to high tourism (30 years ago), are located. It was a memorable dinner where everything had to be ordered in Spanish. The Rock was a great bar and happy hour (3-6) spot as well, we found ourselves here quite a few times.

Others recommendations: Islanders Coffee Roasters and 1835 Coffee were the two great spots near us. You’re not able to drink the water, or brush your teeth with their water, so you will either buy a bunch of bottles or hopefully have a filter in your accommodation. Wifi is lackluster and cell phone coverage is minimal, best to just have wifi and unplug for your time there! Cash is king on the island. Restaurants and cafés will take card, but everything else is pretty much cash. Bus, ferry, water taxi, mini markets, tips, taxis, etc. There are ATMs in the main area of Charles Darwin Avenue but we’ve heard prior they are unreliable.

Isabela Island: we had booked this through the travel agent that our hotel recommended. It was a 2 hour ferry leaving from the main pier to Isabela Island. Upon arrival, we had our tour guide (Naturalista) there to take us through the town, to the Tortoises, to the beach, lunch, then on a boat for snorkeling and a short hike through the volcanic rock. It was very cool, but I’d recommend you book your own ferry tickets and a tour separately for Isabela. Probably more reasonable to go that route but if you want more peace of mind, the agency route would be best.

Bartolomé Island: this was a bit more of a trek, 45 minute bus back to the channel where you first arrived plus a 2.5 hour boat ride. We also went through the travel agent for this day trip, but it is necessary. You can’t get to Bartolomé by ferry, you have to book through someone that provides a Naturalista. A part of the Barotomé trip is a hike to the top to get the infamous Galápagos Islands photo. This island along with Isabela are the two islands where you can see the Galápagos penguin. We were lucky enough to see a couple while snorkeling. Definitely the coolest snorkeling experience we had while in the Islands.